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Bridging
Bridging
Bridging is when a printer extrudes filament across an open gap — for example, spanning the top of a hollow cube or connecting two pillars. The filament is stretched taut between two anchor points, and when done correctly, the result is a clean horizontal span with no drooping.
How Good Bridging Works
Successful bridging requires three things working together:
- Tension: The extruded filament is pulled tight between two points. The nozzle moves quickly enough that the molten plastic is stretched rather than allowed to sag.
- Cooling: The part-cooling fan must rapidly solidify the bridge as it’s laid down. Poor cooling = saggy bridges.
- Flow control: The slicer reduces extrusion during bridging (typically to 80-95% of normal flow) to prevent excess material from weighing down the span.
Bridging Settings That Matter
| Setting | Effect |
|---|---|
| Bridge flow ratio | 80-95%. Less material = lighter bridge = less sag |
| Bridge speed | 20-40mm/s. Fast enough to stretch, slow enough to cool |
| Fan speed during bridges | 100%. Maximum cooling is essential |
| Bridge skin support threshold | 0-10%. Determines when supports are generated instead |
Testing Your Bridge Performance
The classic bridging test is a series of horizontal gaps at increasing distances. Most well-tuned printers can bridge 50-80mm with PLA without significant sagging. PETG typically bridges 30-50mm. TPU and flexible filaments cannot bridge effectively.
Common Bridging Problems
- Sagging/drooping: Too slow, too hot, or insufficient cooling. Solution: increase bridge speed, decrease nozzle temp 5-10°C during bridges, check fan.
- Rough/textured bridges: Over-extrusion during bridging. Solution: lower bridge flow ratio to 85%.
- Broken bridges: Too fast, causing the filament to snap. Solution: decrease bridge speed, increase flow slightly.